Te Anau to Magnificent Milford Sound Fjord

The road from Te Anau to Milford Sound must be one of the most stunning 120km drives in the world! I have driven over the Alps twice, but that was a simple lowland jaunt compared to some sections of this road. At first, it is relatively flat undulating farmland, with mountains in the middle distance on either side as the road follows a flat river valley which runs past cold, clear, tranquil lakes mirroring perfectly the surrounding countryside in what seem like sheer flat plates of glass. Gradually the valley starts to narrow, the road starts to climb, slightly at first and then suddenly steeply and instead of swooping downwards after a while, keeps on winding and keeps on climbing and the mountains crowd closer to the winding road until I have to crane my neck skywards to see the summits towering precariously above.

The temperature drops significantly and there is snow and ice on the side of the road and treacherous black ice on the road. The van slips unexpectedly a couple of times (can you believe it is rear-wheel drive?), but thankfully I am climbing upwards, driving on the left so I’m closer to the sheer rock face instead of the shear drop on the other side of the road. I’m not looking forward much to the journey back on the other side. The road snakes higher and higher, passing through breath-taking valleys and inclines, where signs advise no stopping due to the risk of avalanches and rockslides. The vistas make the hairs on my arms stand on end. I have never been anywhere so high and dramatic in a land vehicle in all my life. It is just so beautiful, I cannot really begin to describe it adequately. The road gets even steeper and with the ice on the road, I have visions of the wheels failing to grip, of slipping backwards out of control, of careering over the edge, of somehow surviving a terrible fall of hundreds of metres, until, days later, someone by chance recognises the skid patterns to the edge of the precipice and, stopping and peering down, sees the wreckage of the van below and raises the alarm. I am rescued, very weak, but alive. People say it is a miracle I survived so many days without food or water and for a short while, I am a minor celebrity. Thankfully, instead, I wait 3 minutes at the start of a one-lane tunnel through the mountains, chatting to the man at the stop sign. He tells me the weather is good for the next couple of days, but that the road is very icy on the other side and that I should take things slowly. With the drop on the other side of the road and my very recent imaginings, I’m taking it easy! Once through the tunnel, I see a couple of snow ploughs clearing the road, which is reassuring and I descend to valley level, still in wonderful, warm sunshine, to arrive at Milford Sound. There is nothing much here: a small ferry terminal, a car park, a slight airport, (well, a longish strip of tarmac anyway), a coffee shop, a lodge (where I stay the night. It is easier than taking the mountain road again, to the cheap DOC campsites). What it does have is a fantastic location, surrounded on 3 sides by majestic mountains and on the fourth side, straight ahead, the surprisingly (at least initially), shallow, blue beauty of the Sound itself. The flow of the water is confusing, with a river running into the Sound one way, from the land, and yet the tide is carrying the water back against the land, so that they meet in a rippled confusion in the middle. The sea wins. I think that’s a general rule.

I’m writing this in the communal area of the lodge at Milford Sound. There are 4 couples. Two people are not speaking and there is a coldness between them, although the lady is trying to soften that and make things better and it is gradually warming between them. One couple are in love and do not see the world around them, except for themselves. Another are laying on a sofa, and are enjoying each other, although separately. It is nice and I type my blog and drink beer.  I am looking forward to the cruise tomorrow. A hitch-hiker I picked up a few days ago, from Argentina, advised me that I could get good deals on a website called Book Me.com, so I have booked a cruise for $23, reduced from $72, so I’m very happy with that. Thanks Max, on the off chance that you are reading!


The next morning is crisp and clear and icy, with the condensation from my breath frozen on the inside of the van and once again I have to tug hard to get the sliding door open due to the ice. The sky is again blue. Brilliant! I arrive at the tranquil harbour at 10am. The fjord comprises both fresh water and salt water, with the fresh water sitting on top of the heavier salt water to a depth of about 10 metres, with a total combined depth of about 396 metres at its deepest point. It is really difficult to gauge and describe the scale of everything, given that very tall things are placed against even taller, tall things, but the mountains extend, at their highest, to 1 mile above sea level and the fjord itself runs around 12 miles to the Tasman Sea. The highest waterfall (The Sterling Waterfall), is almost as high as the fjord is deep, at more than 300 metres. Each day I think the scenery from the previous day can’t be surpassed, and the trend continues. The photos don’t do justice to what must be one of the most picturesque places on earth, although I have to confess that I found the ride through the steep chasms leading up to the Homer Tunnel, high in the mountains, more exhilarating, with an edge of fear that the fjord lacks. But what beauty! 

The campsite facilities, well, facility!

But who cares, with this view?

Road through the montains to Milford Sound

Definitely a time to drive carefully!

A Kea, a sort of Alpine parrot

Milford Sound entrance

Oh Trees, tell me your story

Mitre Peak, over 1600' high

Mountain in the middle is The Lion. It looks like a lion in profile, a bit.

The West coast entrance

Some other loafers.

Heading away from the mountains. Mirror Lakes.

Crystal clear water!

Yep, I'm heading East and North, searching for some sun, I hope and some Whales!